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Author Topic: Ted Evans Jaguar Wakefield  (Read 8901 times)
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BEAR
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« Reply #75 on: January 01, 2011, 03:56:45 PM »

A pic of the tools I've used to do the prop, and a pic of it on the balance now the back is done.
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BEAR
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« Reply #76 on: January 01, 2011, 03:58:59 PM »

BEAR, I have cut a pusher prop. So what you're showing is what I learned to do to HOPEFULLY eliminate my doing so again. All you've said is good advice.

Now for your D/T, I took what you did and made a few changes, but have it essentially the same. Thanks for the how to. It sure helps when the rear end of your model doesn't provide much room for a burner back there.

Wow didn't know some one else was doing a Jaguar Shocked I hope the DT arrangement works ok Grin

I've still got to do the front of the prop but the backs the worst bit! I've started covering the fuz today as well mylars a bit of a b*gger Grin
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crashcaley
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« Reply #77 on: January 01, 2011, 04:38:17 PM »

BEAR, Though following your build with great interest, the Jaguar is way beyond something I would ever try. I'm using your D/T idea for my Climber.

As for your prop tutorial, I think it's great. If anyone asks me, this is where I'll send them, as you're providing a great show and tell.

Caley
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BEAR
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« Reply #78 on: January 02, 2011, 03:21:15 AM »

Well I'm glad I've been some help Caley Cool
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BEAR
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« Reply #79 on: January 02, 2011, 04:48:54 PM »

Prop carving part 2

Now fr the front. Mark the LE then "cross hatch" where the wood will be removed. Start at the high point and chop away as before. Work on both blades to help keep the prop balanced.

I carve away on the diagonal. The front is quite easy to do, just work down to the Black lines, keep thinning the blades with the knife until you are happy with them.
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BEAR
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« Reply #80 on: January 02, 2011, 05:23:31 PM »

When you've got them nice and thin swap too a small block plane to help get rid of any high spots.

Now move to a sanding block I use a red wax pencil to "cross hatch" so I can see where the woods coming off. Start with course paper 120 grit the 240 and finish with 320. When you are happy with the thickness of the blades sand off all the marking out lines and soften all the edges.

Apply 2-3 coats of dope sanding between coats to get a nice finish on the prop. Next (I've not got this far yet) dope on a piece of tissue on the front and rear of the blades this will help stiffen the blades and make them a bit more "Ding" resistant now 2-3 more coats of dope sanding between coats until you have a nice finished prop.

Re-balance as you dope but you will need to let the dope dry before you check the balance.
You are now DONE Cool.

A couple of tips.

Use 16swg prop wire as it doesn't bend so easy in an "arrival" You will most likely need nose weight anyway.

Drill the nose block and prop and sleeve with brass tube. I epoxy this in place.

To stop the glue getting in the end of the tube get a bar of soap from the bathroom, dig the tube in and take a "core sample" give the tube a wipe to re-move any soap from the out side then ruff it up with a file. Mix your epoxy and get a good dollop on the end of the tube(the end blocked with the soap!!) and slide it in the hole, I do this 2 or 3 times to get plenty of glue in the hole. Put the prop or nose block to one side to let the glue go almost hard, when the glue has gone hard-ish push your prop wire through from the clear side, the soap and any glue that got in the tube will pop out.
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BEAR
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« Reply #81 on: January 02, 2011, 05:30:45 PM »

Pics of the finish sanded prop the pile of shavings and the prop balancer I use.

This is by no means the best way to carve a prop but it works for me. Cool I'll let you into a secret now, like I said I'm no expert this is the 3rd prop I've carved Shocked so if I can do it so can you.

If any one wishes to add any tips or ideas to this bit on prop carving please feel free.

Cheers for now BEAR. Wink
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applehoney
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« Reply #82 on: January 02, 2011, 06:31:06 PM »

BEAR - I wish my third prop had looked as good as this!

Interested in all the various sandpaper grits employed. I only have two grades .... part-worn and well-worn. Cheesy
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« Reply #83 on: January 03, 2011, 02:42:00 AM »

BEAR - I wish my third prop had looked as good as this!

Interested in all the various sandpaper grits employed. I only have two grades .... part-worn and well-worn Cheesy

Sand paper is easy for me because of the job I do  Grin
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« Reply #84 on: January 22, 2011, 05:23:30 AM »

After listening to comments on how far my tail was tipping I decided to re-visit it as I was not over happy with it myself and look into getting a better tilt angle, so with a bit of extra gusseting and a bit of trimming I've got it up a bit more Grin and can get more if needed.
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BEAR
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« Reply #85 on: January 22, 2011, 06:24:51 AM »

Covering the Jaguar fuz is tricky as a box of frogs!!!

Trying to get 5 mic mylar where you wont it on a model of this shape when its the 1st time I've used mylar, well i,ll leave you to imagine the language but it weren't pretty Shocked and How do you throw the off-cuts away Huh

You pick the bits up throw them in the bin and oh no wait its still on my hand cos of the static Shocked try again and again and again well you get the picture Grin any way there's mylar off cuts all over the house and I'm in trouble (no change there then).

I've no pics of the mylar going on as its just more pics of a bare air frame.

I used BALSA LOC on the frame work as I work in the house and EVO STICK stinks.

I covered the belly 1st, then the bottom of the fuz, then the top, then the sub fin, I've used what ever method it took to get the mylar on tidy, then shrank it with a heat sealing iron. The iron was on about half setting to tack and then move up hotter and hotter till I got a nice tight covering, in the end it was almost as hot as it goes and I burnt most fingers :'(

I've taken the fuz to a club meeting and have been told I've done a nice job of the mylar Cool.

Now onto the tissue I'm going Black fuz, sub fin and rudder. White wings and stab. Tissue is Esaki as it has good wet strength (bears don't have dainty paws).

I brushed a coat of 50\50 thinned dope on the air frame 1st.

I put a piece of 10mm wide tissue at the joint between the fuz and fin as a bridge to make life easier and help with the fit of the tissue.

I cut a piece of tissue over size, put a drop of water in the bathroom sink then holding the tissue so it gets wet and does,nt stick to its self (1st bit went in the bin) place it where I wanted it and quickly and carefully stroke the wrinkles out then brush PLENTY of neat thinners through the tissue to stick it down.

Pic 1 shows the sub fin covered.

Now because of the water the dope\thinners "Blooms" goes white and streaky as it drys DON'T panic let it dry and move on to the next bit.

I did the fuz in the order of the pics, fin, belly, back left under side front left under side then the right then the top. I know that's not the right order to do it but it was the best way for me to work and the fuz is nice and straight and strong.

Oh ya nearly forgot, the White marks on the tissue Shocked to get rid of them just brush another coat of thinners on and haypressto as it drys they will be gone Cool
Well that's the fuz done I'm going to do the tail next and finish on the wings .

Cheers for now
BEAR Cool
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Zack
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« Reply #86 on: January 22, 2011, 08:22:31 AM »

I'd try picking up the mylar with the sticky side of packing or masking tape. You could then tape them to the inside of the trash can.
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algy
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« Reply #87 on: February 02, 2011, 09:09:17 PM »

Hi Bear,
Was looking at model stuff on UTube a short time ago. Found this link that might interest you and other Jaguar fans. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFHxHXaU_y0&feature=related

It shows a Jaguar powering up in a rock stable fashion then D/Ting down in great style.

Cheers

Algy
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« Reply #88 on: February 03, 2011, 02:05:52 PM »

Nice find Algy it looks like the flyer is lighting a fuse in the belly which is where i,ve put mine and its a bit hard to be sure from the video but it does,nt look like the tail comes up that high as it dts
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« Reply #89 on: February 04, 2011, 11:51:59 AM »

Here's a few pics of the covering job so far Cool

Just the wings to do now.
Every time I do some thing to this model it gets bigger and bigger Grin it sits on a King Size bed to give you some idea Shocked

Cheers for now BEAR.
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crashcaley
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« Reply #90 on: February 04, 2011, 12:14:46 PM »

BEAR, Tis a behemoth. Will look majestik in the air.

Caley
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« Reply #91 on: February 12, 2011, 03:19:51 PM »

Well plugging away at the covering Tongue I only do it when im in the mood cos it can not be rushed Cool

So pic 1 is the stab finished, its been fixed down on a board for about 3 weeks to stop it warping Shocked the centres black to match up with the fuz Cool

The left wing has my BMFA number on it just in case I wont to enter it in any comps, so then I thought to myself "The right wing needs some thing to brighten it up a bit so what should I do???"

Well I think it looks prity damn cool Cool Cool Cool.

What I did was found a font on the 'puter that I liked, printed it out at the largest size I could but it was to small so I photo copied it at 175% printed it again, then stuck the print out down then taped a piece of Black Esaki over the top of it then with a steady hand and a brand new number 11 blade set to work Shocked took me about an hour to cut it out but I think it was worth the effort.

So jobs to do? bend the prop wire up order a lorry load of rubber and get some nice pics in the sunshine Cool

Finished pics to come in a week or so Grin

Cheers for now BEAR.
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applehoney
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« Reply #92 on: February 12, 2011, 06:21:24 PM »

Nice neat work!

Does not the SMAE ... sorry 'BMFA' ... require a membership number on any model regardless of whether it's flown in competition, or have things changed over the years?

Six-digit numbers now ... mine was 8286. My son 'owns' it now (if he's retained his membership) but I told him if I ever returned to Merrie Olde I'd want it back Grin Confused a CD in the 60s when I displayed my number in Roman numerals and he couldn't read it.
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BEAR
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« Reply #93 on: February 13, 2011, 04:29:45 AM »

Nice neat work!

Does not the SMAE ... sorry 'BMFA' ... require a membership number on any model regardless of whether it's flown in competition, or have things changed over the years?

Six-digit numbers now ... mine was 8286. My son 'owns' it now (if he's retained his membership) but I told him if I ever returned to Merrie Olde I'd want it back Grin Confused a CD in the 60s when I displayed my number in Roman numerals and he couldn't read it.

Number has to be on there for comps only I just put them on in case I want to do a comp with it.
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« Reply #94 on: March 04, 2011, 02:16:42 PM »

FINISHED!!!!
Well here she is in all her glory Cool

Weights are without rubber
U\C23 grms
Fuz44 grms
Prop\nose block      28 grms
Wings\brace46 grms
Vertical fin5 grms
Stab10 grms
Total156 gms

She now needs a 100 grms of rubber and some warm weather Cool

I don't look too happy in the last pic as it was 530pm here in the U.K and [email protected]@dy cold Grin

I'll up date this thread with flying pics as and when the weather improves.

Cheers for now BEAR.
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« Reply #95 on: March 04, 2011, 02:38:46 PM »

BEAR, I've been looking forward to these pictures. What a snazzy airplane. Sorry about the cold. Seems a lot of that is going around lately. Bear up Grin 'cause spring is around the corner.

Caley
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« Reply #96 on: March 04, 2011, 06:10:34 PM »

Superb.  Cool
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Simplicate & add more lightness. Keep sanding!



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« Reply #97 on: March 04, 2011, 07:27:35 PM »

Simply charming Jag, BEAR!

So maybe next pix you will smile, cause you are on Candid Camera! It is not on to look like you are a bear, BEAR! Cheesy

Applehoney Jim,

Hmmm, AMA numbers in Roman numerals... I think you gave me an idea for some fun with our CDs! Grin
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« Reply #98 on: March 04, 2011, 08:29:17 PM »

Hi Bear,

Great to see the photos of the finished Jaguar. It looks superb. Do hope the trimming flights go well and the D/T works as planned

Any chance you can post some flying footage?

Just by chance I was reading the March 1949 Aeromodeller last night and noticed an ad for the Jaguar kit being sold by a hobby shop in Wales.(They'll be singing down in the valley Boyo)

As the attachment shows the ad has must have the worst "pun" I have ever seen used in advertising I will leave it alone not wishing to milk out an even worse example.

Cheers

Algy
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« Reply #99 on: March 05, 2011, 03:14:17 AM »

Thanks for the nice comments every one Cool I'm VERY pleased with the Jaguar and the way its come out, I've got to put a bit more dope on the wings as the tissue lifted a bit in the cold and damp, it was 20 degrees indoors and only about 3 degrees out side and damp!! that's why I'm not smiling I was gritting my teeth to stop them chattering Grin.

That's not my flying field that's where we keep are ponies and horses. I will see if some one will video the Jag when its trimmed out but it wont be for a couple of months yet.

Cheers BEAR\Kev.
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