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Author Topic: "Icarex" PC31  (Read 8216 times)
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glidermaster
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« Reply #75 on: October 15, 2012, 05:39:05 PM »

Dean,
I stopped the (white) inner panel covering about 0.75" short of the inboard end of theinner  panel. Then I masked and painted a 1.25" wide stripe of bright red fuel proof (apparently) paint - 2 coats. That is, it overlaps the Icarex by 1/2" or so. The red stripe is visible in the photo.
I put 4 coats of 50/50 dope on the wing (before putting on the stripe of red paint) although my dope might be a bit thinner than 50/50, as I was using it on a rubber model before that F1C wing.

My tip covering doesn't overlap the inner panel covering at all, but there is a 1/4" pin stripe of black monokote over that 'join'.
John
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flydean1
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« Reply #76 on: October 15, 2012, 06:31:04 PM »

Thanks Glidermaster.

You must have sheet on the inner bay where the wings join in the center.  My wing is open all the way to the center root rib.  Right now I am planning a 1/4 inch overlap and epoxy over the Icarex where you have the red stripe.

Does that sound OK?
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BG
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« Reply #77 on: October 15, 2012, 06:56:52 PM »

Hi All,
Nice wings John. So can I assume from this that you will soon be a force to be reckoned with in F1C circles?

Hoping so as we need all of the New blood we can get (especially in the power events).

Bernard
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flydean1
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« Reply #78 on: October 15, 2012, 09:17:25 PM »

I'm assuming the dope is butyrate as it is a power model.  Did you put any epoxy on the wing center section?
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flydean1
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« Reply #79 on: April 07, 2013, 07:26:09 AM »

I finally got the wing and stab covered on my Super Pearl 542.  Should I finish with nitrate first then a coat of butyrate, or all butyrate, or nitrate with a light coat of epoxy on the center section? 

Need to hear from you gas model Icarex users.

Thanks.
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applehoney
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« Reply #80 on: April 07, 2013, 03:32:48 PM »

While I don't use Icarex I have to wonder why you're considering butyrate as a top coat  ... or for all coats.  The stuff is only proof to low nitro content, likely far less than fuels you're likely to use, and shrinks steadily over time.    I would not consider anything other than nitrate, plus a good fuel proofer to protect it.

  
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flydean1
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« Reply #81 on: April 07, 2013, 05:32:54 PM »

Thanks Applehoney,

That was what I was leaning toward.  I plan to proof the center overlap with about a 2 inch wide stripe of colored (coloured?) Klass Kote, over a couple coats of thin nitrate.  Then after the stripe, a coat of thin epoxy clear on the main panels and the stab center section.
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bdk127
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« Reply #82 on: October 06, 2019, 10:52:16 PM »

There has been allot of good information shared in this thread and i thank you all. I see that all applications are flat or wrapped around the leading edge.  Has anyone tried to wrap around an edge? If so can you share your experience?  I am a glider guy.. And really want to try icarex covering for a wing. Thank you.

Brian
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Tmat
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« Reply #83 on: October 07, 2019, 10:50:43 AM »

Brian,
Do you mean wrap around a trailing edge?
If so, yes I've done that. There is several ways to arrange the covering. If you have one color, you could wrap around the leading edge and glue down at the trailing edge with an overlap. Or the opposite, wrap around the trailing edge and join at the leading edge.
But I've used different colors on the bottom than on the top quite often. Bright highly visible colors on top (Fluorescent yellow or Orange etc) and dark contrasting colors on the bottom (Black or dark Navy blue). In that case I use a separate piece on top and bottom that overlaps at both the leading edge AND trailing edge. And some guys just buy the plain white Icarex and use spray tinted dope to add colors. Your choice.

Tmat
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bdk127
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« Reply #84 on: October 07, 2019, 02:44:04 PM »

Tmat,
I am looking to cover a 3m wing with 2 maybe 3 colors on top and oracover lite clear on the bottom. My dilemma are the tip and how to handle that. Also the Leading edge is a carbon rod. Planning on lights colors inboard transitioning to a dark color outboard. Maybe this wing is not a good candidate for icarex?

Brian
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Tapio Linkosalo
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« Reply #85 on: October 07, 2019, 11:15:57 PM »

I have covered my wings with different colors top and bottom. Starting with the bottom first it wraps around the TE, glued to both sides of the strip. The top then glues only to the top of the trailing edge. Needs plenty of glue to hold, but mostly stable. Leading edge with D-box is easier.

For a carbon leading edge you probably need several millimeters of overlap beyond the carbon itself. Cover one side with the LE edge cut to right width, ally glue and then the covering to the other side. Use iron on mild setting to first glue the two layers together and only then apply more heat to shrink the Icarex, avoiding applying too much heat to the LE seam at this phase. Just the same way you would do the underside undercamber: glue to ribs first, then tighten between the ribs without touching the ribs and softening the glue.

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mhodgson
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« Reply #86 on: October 09, 2019, 10:00:49 AM »

Curious why you are using a different covering on the bottom. I would think both in Icarex would be structurally better.
If you are set on doing it (but even if covering completely in Icarex), and assuming the top is a different colour to the bottom, I would cover the bottom first- wrapping it around the LE dowel and then the top, wrapping the Icarex some 1/4" to 1/2" or so over the bottom covering.
Don't shrink too much until you have joined/overlapped the two at the LE. That way they are stuck to each other and pulling on each other. The dowel LE then is simply holding the covering in the right place so it does not matter if it is only 3 or 4 mm in diameter.

As for the tip- I would cover in a whatever heat shrink covering you have such as oracover. Make it a feature so the colour difference is not a problem (unless you find a close enough match).
On one model I simply sealed the balsa tip, painted it and then covered the rest of the wing in a shrink film.

As Icarex does not have a glue you do need to apply glue to all the ribs, spars etc. I would also a some around the edge (underside obviously) of the Icarex panel itself to ensure a strong joint and to account for overlaps.
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bdk127
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« Reply #87 on: October 09, 2019, 12:46:37 PM »

mhodgson,
Thanks for the information. After reading through quite a few threads here, the FF guys seem to gravitate to an ultrakote lite clear or similar on the bottom and icarex on the top. I was looking to emulate that on a built up 3M wing with carbon leading edge and carbon spar. It was mentioned that there is a performance increase with this combination. I wont go into all the details here as they are presented elsewhere on this forum.
I also asked the question if my wing is a good candidate for this covering in an earlier post, as the FF guys usually have a carbon fiber wing with dbox. That makes the wing very stiff to start with. Was looking what other have experienced with icarex to see if I want to go that route. I really do like the vibrancy of the colors... just not sure about the wing torsional stiffness after I am done.

Brian   
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mhodgson
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« Reply #88 on: October 09, 2019, 05:04:30 PM »

I shall look that up.
I would suggest that torsional strength would be better with Icarex on both sides. For certain I believe torsional stiffness will be improved using Icarex over heat shrink film so yes your wing is suitable. If you look on rcgroups at the yellow jacket 3m thread you will see 3m and 3.5m open structure wings covered in film so Icarex will be a good or better alternative.
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bdk127
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« Reply #89 on: October 14, 2019, 09:41:45 PM »

one more question and I am ready to dive in so to speak! Based on the comment below from tmat, What is the consistiency of thin dope?

Brian

The first picture shows some of the tools and materials I used. I'm using DAP Weldwood contact cement thinned with Toluene. I mix the glue in an aluminum tin cup to the consistency of thin dope.
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