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Author Topic: Peterborough timer  (Read 8711 times)
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Dave Andreski
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« on: March 06, 2011, 01:27:59 AM »

I'm very happy to report that about an hour ago I successfully built this timer using a larger mosfet (original is on 'back order') that'll handle more amps.

Can't wait to get something in the air, timed, that is.

Bill Piatek, 'scrubs' here on HPA was a great help and kindly put up with my incessant queries as to how to go about things.

My timer weighs in at a hefty 2.17g. When the original mosfet becomes available I should be able to cut that weight by about a gram.
 
http://www.flyquiet.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=1383.0

Dave Andreski
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« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2011, 01:31:59 PM »

And I owe all my success with these things to Boffin who kindly put up with my endless questions a couple of years back. Roll Eyes

Just wait till you discover how easy they are to fly. My small stuff seems to trim easier than rubber jobs. And once they are trimmed out a few lipos and a 9v battery or zapper is all you need for an hour or two's fun.

bill
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2011, 03:18:08 PM »

Hi Bill,
I'll have to e-mail Boffin and thank him for putting his 'blessings' on the substitute mosfet I picked out on the Mouser site. He says he rarely gets feedback and most people want him to make timers for them which he will NOT do.

Dave
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« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2011, 04:07:02 PM »

Just wait till you discover how easy they are to fly. My small stuff seems to trim easier than rubber jobs.

This is probably the case -- your electric motor, with a lithium battery, has near-constant power over the timer's run, where a tightly wound rubber motor will vary by a factor of three to five between initial burst torque and cruise torque -- meaning that a rubber model has to be trimmed to fly over a wide power range instead of a narrowly controlled power level.
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« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2011, 04:53:04 PM »

That and the fact that the direct drive setups I'm using have much smaller props so freewheeling isn't as much a concern.

bill
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« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2011, 02:24:37 PM »

Dave,

Well pleased that you got your first Peterborough timer going. There is nothing like the feeling when the motor chimes up first time when you apply the Zapper and when the motor quits after 30secs or so. You are now over the learning hump and can do no wrong. I agree with scrubs that an electronic system is a doddle to trim as the torque is very nearly constant and all the runs are exactly the same.

You should not be concerned about dropping the LiPo voltage below 3v/cell as the model will tell you when the voltage is going off by refusing to climb. As a rule of thumb I get 8 x  30sec runs before I charge and I use about 60% of the battery capacity i.e I measure about 3.5v/cell at the battery.

Regards Ian
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #6 on: March 09, 2011, 03:41:18 PM »

Thanks Ian,
I appreciate this info.

I've sent you an e-mail.

Dave Andreski
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« Reply #7 on: March 14, 2011, 11:43:52 AM »

Imagine my surprise as I clicked on the Mouser link and came up with the page in GERMAN! Turns out, they have a major outlet in Munich - now I just have to give them a call to find out if they (the German HQ) delivers to private parties.

Dave, do you have a schematic/pc board/ wiring diagram? I'm also considering electrics for some of my larger models.

UPPS! Just saw the FlyQuiet link Embarrassed.
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #8 on: March 14, 2011, 12:39:59 PM »

Pete,
I have most of the info in pdf format + 1 DOC file. I'll put 'em in an e-mail.

Dave Andreski
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« Reply #9 on: March 15, 2011, 03:39:22 PM »

Pete,

Further to Dave's data, have a look at ........

http://www.peterboroughmfc.org/technical-articles/web_site_FETtimer.pdf

Browse the Technical Data file and look for applications of the 'FET timer' and 'connector' articles.

Contact me if you get stuck or want further info.

Regards Ian
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« Reply #10 on: March 15, 2011, 07:17:14 PM »

I've been waiting till the mosfets are back in stock at Mouser to place an order and have been checking from time to time. I notice the price on the 33u cap has jumped about 300% in the last few days. Not a deal breaker but it's gone from about $.32 to $1.10. The 47u cap for the older timer version has gone up similarly and is now about $2.40. Wonder if the manufacturer was wiped out with the Japanese earthquake or Huh

bill
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« Reply #11 on: July 26, 2011, 02:55:25 AM »

Just got my parts from Mouser and will start building the timer tomorrow....I'll post my results and especially any need for assistance from ya'll... Embarrassed Grin Cheesy

Plan to  use this on my Goose in the Cookup section...

Tom
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« Reply #12 on: July 26, 2011, 07:49:34 AM »

I got a set-up from Ian last week and am sourcing props.  He recommended the 2.5x10 GWS prop for the "blue cap" pager motor, (which I'll have to order, but I have two slightly shorter motors (15 vs. 17mm) that should be ok with 2.5x8 props.  I'm having a lot of fun playing with the jobbie Grin.   I'll be ordering more stuff from Mouser next month, to try soldering one again.

The timer has the variable pot which makes it a smidge bulkier, but also easier to use (variable run times).  I'm planning to mount the set-up in one of the peanut racers I'm building for the SFA "Racer Cook-Up".
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« Reply #13 on: July 31, 2011, 04:24:56 PM »

Hi all - I set up a Peterborough type FET Timer over the weekend - with some very groovy results!!
Because of the FET that I am using, the timer is less like a switch and more like a transistor.
The power supplied to the motor corresponds to the power remaining in the capacitor - I am getting burst - cruise and decay!!

The FET is a  P16NF06 with a 33 uF Cap, running from a 95 mAH lipo cell.
This is good for over 2 minutes with a full power start running down to zero.
The main difference between my timer and the Peterborough design is that I use the on board lipo to charge the capacitor.
I should be able to "press and go" until the lipo runs down.

Now - to build a peanut electric ducted fan!!
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #14 on: July 31, 2011, 06:39:19 PM »

Hi all - I set up a Peterborough type FET Timer over the weekend - with some very groovy results!!
Because of the FET that I am using, the timer is less like a switch and more like a transistor.
The power supplied to the motor corresponds to the power remaining in the capacitor - I am getting burst - cruise and decay!!

The FET is a  P16NF06 with a 33 uF Cap, running from a 95 mAH lipo cell.
This is good for over 2 minutes with a full power start running down to zero.
The main difference between my timer and the Peterborough design is that I use the on board lipo to charge the capacitor.
I should be able to "press and go" until the lipo runs down.

Now - to build a peanut electric ducted fan!!

  COOL!
  More info please. Two minutes with a 95 mah LiPo using WHICH MOTOR? Sounds like it might be one of those little 'tail rotor' motors from one of your micro-heli's.
  Pictures? Diagram? What value resistor are you using with this set-up?
 I'm not sure which 16NF06 FET you're using but my STB16NF06L's weigh 1.43g whereas the 'original' STD12NF06L's weigh .34g.

  Thanks,
  Dave Andreski
 
« Last Edit: July 31, 2011, 07:07:07 PM by Dave Andreski » Logged

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« Reply #15 on: August 18, 2011, 05:18:52 PM »

Got sidetracked gentlemen.....pulled the parts from the box they were shipped in an was suprised that the parts were sooooo small.  Also my resistor didn't have any wires coming out each end....so I put them back in the box and worked on the Hanger Rats....With the rats done I re-examined the parts and upon closer examination the major parts except for the resistor look the same as the pictures posted on Ian's site. 

Can I use regular stiff single strand speaker wire (approx. .5mm) to solder up this setup?  I'm very new to all this so forgive me if I'm asking dumb questions.
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« Reply #16 on: August 18, 2011, 08:57:35 PM »

 Tom,
  Your resistor(s) came with no wire(s) attached? Which one did you order? Where did you get them?
 You ordered one resistor?
  I need more info before I can offer any help. Got pics?
 
  Dave Andreski
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« Reply #17 on: August 18, 2011, 09:10:52 PM »

  Tom,
   Here's a pic showing the size of the resistors I use. PLEASE disregard the physical size. The important point is that it has WIRES to solder to. This is a 1/8 WATT resistor, value determined by the color rings.

   Dave Andreski
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« Reply #18 on: August 18, 2011, 10:53:48 PM »

Dave,

I ordered this from Mouser....with the numbers from the list at the Peterborough timer site.

I try to take pics and post tomorrow....thanks a lot for your assistance.

Tom
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« Reply #19 on: August 19, 2011, 02:07:59 AM »

Got those pictures taken and here's the components I purchased from Mouser Elec...

I guess I got caught up in the "film" aspect of the components...lighter/smaller so I ordered the wrong resistors.  I ordered three of each component so you will see the resistors in a three pack.  I had no idea how small they were.  No wonder so light!!! Shocked Roll Eyes Grin Cool

Tom
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« Reply #20 on: August 19, 2011, 04:17:50 AM »

You can use those SMD (Surface Mount Device) resistors. Life's easier with conventional resistors but I've made plenty of timers using resistors of that type. Just solder one side direct to the capacitor/MOSFet and then some thin wire to across to the other side. The biggest problem is that they're so light that you'll find the surface tension of the solder keeps picking them up. I generally use double sided tape to hold the capacitor/FET steady then something like a cocktail stick to hold the resistor in place while I dab the soldering iron on...a magnifying glass helps too Smiley.

Steve
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« Reply #21 on: August 19, 2011, 02:18:58 PM »

 Hi Tom,
  I'm glad you have all the necessary parts on hand.
 I have some of the same Mosfets but am not familiar with those caps and resistors. You say you got the part#s from the Peterborough site so they should work well.
  
  As Steve has said, the soldering may be a little tricky. Follow his advice.

  I wouldn't use solid core wire because it would, in my opinion, put too much strain on the soldered connections during handling and set up.

  Dave Andreski
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« Reply #22 on: August 20, 2011, 11:51:54 AM »

Any time you need wire for a project you need multi strand wire -it is so much easer to use than single strand stiff wire !
 Just be sure to tin the exposed end of the wire before you try to attach it to the components !!
that way it takes less heat and time to do the joints !!
  George
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« Reply #23 on: August 20, 2011, 04:12:50 PM »

sky9pilot,
Dave Andeski offers you wise words. You have ordered SMD surface mount resistors which will be a pain to solder up. To make life easy, you really need 1/8 watt resistors with wires attached. The stuff you have is not impossible to assemble but not at all easy. Please do not give up. If you have problems post and you will get help.
Regards Ian PMFC
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« Reply #24 on: August 20, 2011, 07:53:35 PM »

Thanks Ian,

I thought I'd give the SMD resistor a try.  I was trying to get some connectors put together...had a couple of old computers in the garage, and since I have more time than money I pulled one apart and tried to salvage some motors from the drives and connectors...will post pictures soon...

Thanks again to all of you for your assistance in this...I know I will get one built soon. 

Tom
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