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Author Topic: Glow drivers for COX .049's and PEE-WEE .020's  (Read 1759 times)
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Dave Andreski
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« on: March 10, 2011, 06:45:32 PM »

I'd appreciate any help/recommendations for one of these that'll FIT an .020 COX Pee-Wee.

Thanks

Dave Andreski
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Zeiss Ikon
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« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2011, 07:38:52 PM »

Long ago when I flew R/C, there was a "built on a battery" type of glow driver that had a sort of modified alligator clip; one jaw clipped under the top cooling fin on the cylinder (down off the head, so accommodated a wide range of engines) and the other had a little fork that snapped onto the terminal of the glow plug or glow head. The same clip was also sold on the end of a wire (or for use with a wire, you might have had to solder it on yourself). I saw these used on engines ranging from a Tee Dee .020 up to at least a .40 RC size.

I've also seen people use simple alligator clips -- one clipped on the glow plug/head terminal, the other on any convenient metal engine part (muffler, mounting bolt, or on a reed valve engine you could even use the needle valve stem).
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2011, 08:59:10 AM »

Thanks Zeiss but I already have 'clips'. I am referring to these-

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=glow+starter&search=Go

Dave Andreski
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danberry
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« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2011, 09:26:14 AM »

Never saw a battery unit like that that would fit on a Cox head.
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2011, 09:30:55 AM »

Thanks danberry,
That's exactly what I needed to know.

Dave Andreski
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Zeiss Ikon
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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2011, 07:47:07 PM »

Thanks Zeiss but I already have 'clips'. I am referring to these-

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=glow+starter&search=Go

Dave Andreski

What I was talking about (which I saw in around 1984-1985, when I was flying a lot of R/C) was like those, but with the "clip" -- like an alligator clip that would fit the Cox glow heads. Don't know if they're still out there -- I hear Cox (Estes) dropped the glow engines, which must cut into the demand for glow drivers...
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2011, 09:00:10 AM »

Zeiss,
They're still out there- http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBWL9&P=7

I was hoping that the igniter alone would be useful. Since none fit the Cox heads, I've given up on the idea and will use the clips I already have. The igniter is basically just a battery holder.

Dave Andreski
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« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2011, 12:55:21 PM »

Okay, I agree, that one is really no better (for Cox type heads) than carrying a battery in your pocket with the wire and clip soldered onto the holder. The ones I recall had the clip mounted directly on the battery, no wire between -- like the plug-on sockets that fit a standard glow plug, but with the socket replaced by a clip. Looks like they've gone the way of the dodo...
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TimWescott
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« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2011, 11:26:33 PM »

When I got back into flying a few years ago I struggled mightily with starting Cox engines, until someone pointed out that NiCd glow starters are just a bit lame for Cox glow heads -- those things just want a bit more voltage than you can get out of a NiCd.

Two alkaline D-cells, wired in parallel, with the heaviest lamp cord (or Monster Wire if you're an audiophile) to the clip, work very well. In fact, they're now my "rescue batteries" for cold winter days when a NiCd glow started doesn't have enough snuff for a big engine.
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danberry
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« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2011, 10:43:27 AM »

I use a 12 volt battery and a power panel with a knob. Never have a problem getting it lit that way.
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #10 on: March 13, 2011, 01:03:02 PM »

Thanks again everyone.

I'll go with the alkalines in parallel.

Dave Andreski
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TimWescott
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« Reply #11 on: March 13, 2011, 03:51:30 PM »

Thanks again everyone.

I'll go with the alkalines in parallel.

If you want to be fancy find some banana plugs (I think Radio Shack has them), and get the matching size brass tubing at the LHS. Solder the batteries together with the tube (with a BIG soldering iron), and use banana plugs on your clip leads. The tubing makes a nice mechanically stout, electrically low resistance way to connect the batteries, and being able to unplug the glow clip means you don't short it out on a wrench and run your batteries down in a day. You can also get a regular glow plug lead for rescuing the 'big engine' guys on said cold days.
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #12 on: March 13, 2011, 04:15:48 PM »

Hi Tim,
I have plenty banana plugs, tubing, solder and a 40 watt iron and one that'll go to about 900° F.
A simple hand drawn sketch would help.
 
Thanks again,
Dave Andreski
« Last Edit: March 13, 2011, 05:30:07 PM by Dave Andreski » Logged

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TimWescott
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« Reply #13 on: March 14, 2011, 12:14:40 AM »

This enough?

A great big soldering iron really does work better if you have one -- it's not so much the power or the temperature that helps, it's the sheer thermal mass that lets you heat up the ends of the cells quickly.
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Re: Glow drivers for COX .049's and PEE-WEE .020's
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #14 on: March 14, 2011, 12:24:06 AM »

Well... yes, I think?

It's a lot more than I knew before.

So... tubing is aggressively soldered across + and - battery terminals, banana plugs are inserted w/proper gauge wire, into the tubing running to the glow head clip?

Dave Andreski
« Last Edit: March 14, 2011, 12:47:35 AM by Dave Andreski » Logged

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« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2011, 07:22:28 AM »

Dave, one other suggestion. After getting the cells soldered together, shrinkwrap the whole kaboodle in some of that heat-shrink tubing for electrical components. The large size sleeving can be found at most hobby shops or at any decent electronic outlet.

WILL save you a case ot "HOT pants" Wink.
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« Reply #16 on: March 14, 2011, 11:14:44 AM »

Whoops -- somehow I lost a reply here.

Dave -- yes, more or less. Tubing soldered directly to batteries, clip wired to banana plugs, plug things together when you want power.

And I forgot to mention that you need to insulate it. I wrap the ends in cardboard (cereal-box weight). This is little more than just "hats" over the tubing, so that if you bump the thing it won't scrape the insulating material away. Then I wrap with electrical tape. The right size of giant heat-shrink tubing would work splendidly, but electrical tape is profoundly inexpensive at Home Depot.
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #17 on: March 17, 2011, 11:17:36 AM »

 Hi Tim,
After all this chatter I discovered that of the ~30, 12" lengths of brass tubing I own, NONE are 3/16" to fit the banana plugs! However, I do have 2 pcs of SQUARE 3/16". I wonder if this will work? If not. I'll have to order the ROUND stuff.

Dave Andreski
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« Reply #18 on: March 17, 2011, 11:39:08 AM »

I don't know! You certainly won't get an all-around contact with the plug, but I don't think you get that with a banana plug in a round hole anyway. So it probably works just as well, even if it doesn't look elegant.

I'd either solder my lamp cord directly to the battery, and hope I didn't short out on anything, or I'd use square tubing. I honestly don't know which -- I'd probably see how well I thought the plugs fit in the tubing, and think about versatility and proof from shorts, then make my decision.
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« Reply #19 on: March 23, 2011, 04:03:18 PM »

I might have missed something here, but the original Cox glow clip is still available and (I think) still the best for a Cox head (check out eBay - Xenalook is the seller - cost about $10). Rechargeable 2V sealed lead acid batteries are also available (for example Hawker Cyclon do a 'D' size version cost about $8.50) - there are many sellers.

Rumage through your various wall adapter power packs and find one with a constant current output of about 300mA and a voltage in the range 2-3v for a charger, or visit a Thrift store, they seem to have boxes of the things.

John
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« Reply #20 on: December 31, 2011, 04:31:40 AM »

Here are a couple of Tatone clips from the sixties don`t know how good they where on Coxes
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