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Author Topic: Squarecoupe Build  (Read 2688 times)
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TimWescott
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« Reply #50 on: May 02, 2011, 02:47:58 PM »

Tom: I am definitely going to copy your canopy hoops. I was thinking of making mine semicircular, but the oval that you're choosing there looks a lot better.

I see you've put more wood on the turtle deck -- I was trying to save weight and left mine triangular. Yours will definitely look better.
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buildawyvern
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« Reply #51 on: May 02, 2011, 10:44:09 PM »

Thanks for the comments Tim!

Yours looks good with the triangle front and back. I hope the stringers didn't ad that much. So far mine weighs 3.5 grams with what you see in the photos. I love Bostonians because simplicity and how it flies is what comes first. Looks is second.

Tom

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buildawyvern
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« Reply #52 on: May 04, 2011, 03:35:14 PM »

Here's most of my Squarecoupe "bones". I still to install the landing gear and make some wheels. I wish I had some of your foam wheels.
How much for a set including postage Tim? I have 1 inch dihedral under each wing tip. How much in yours?

Tom
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TimWescott
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« Reply #53 on: May 04, 2011, 04:20:37 PM »

I put in 1.5" on each tip, after getting advise to "put in lots" -- http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?topic=5647.0. I actually put in less than the recommended "above the bottoms of the windows", so maybe it's too little.

Send me a PM. I can't really arrive at a fair price for the wheels unless I either automate the process a whole bunch, teach my 12 year old how to make them, or retire. But if you have something to trade for (right now I'm hankering after a nice competitive P-30 legal prop or two) I may make a deal. I'd be interested in knowing what people thought such wheels would be worth -- if I had a price to aim for it'd help me figure out whether it's worthwhile tooling up to make them in batches.
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buildawyvern
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« Reply #54 on: May 05, 2011, 12:12:08 PM »

I think I'll add more dihedral in mine before I cover it. I think I'll have to make my own wheels anyway since I need them for next weekend (May 15). I love your foam wheels though. That's a great idea. With model supplies you never make back what you spent on them in time. I do have a couple of those yellow Czech p-30 props I could part with perhaps in the future?

Good luck with your Squarecoupe Tim! Any news about how it flies will be most welcome.

Tom
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TimWescott
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« Reply #55 on: May 07, 2011, 02:13:45 PM »

If'n anyone else is interested: http://www.ccwebster.net/robintim/squarecoupe/squarecoupe.pdf

This is the plans updated with detail on the formers, and with the curved canopy hoop shown.  Now I need to go make my own canopy hoops, and put them on!

Tom: your build supplied a lot of the motivation to dot all the 'i's and cross all the 't's on this plan -- thanks.
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TimWescott
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« Reply #56 on: May 20, 2011, 01:05:47 AM »

It flew today, without the canopy (I've been slow about getting the formers bent, because Job 1 in the model shop is keeping the CLPA airplane flying, and I crashed it bad last week).

Flies pretty good.  I'm not close to having it trimmed out, but I managed two or three circles on a short motor -- next stop is a longer motor, and see how it does as the CG shifts back!  It does tend to stall a bit on full power -- so there's adjusting yet to do.

Tom, it occurred to me that this may be the second example of this design to fly -- have you gotten yours in the air?  How'd it go?
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buildawyvern
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« Reply #57 on: May 20, 2011, 01:30:52 AM »

Tim,

I haven't had time to cover mine but I should be able to next week. Perhaps a test flight in the next 10 days? I'll try the CG a bit forward and lots of washout in my wingtips.

I'll keep you posted on mine and thanks for the update on yours.

Tom
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rgroener
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« Reply #58 on: May 25, 2011, 02:38:33 AM »

Tim
Great looking Squarecoupe. Glad to hear that it flies, looking forward to some flight pics or even a video....
Thanks also for sharing the plan. I will put it on the to do list. I normally avoid airplanes with bubble canopies due to the molding process. I didn't try to mold my own parts yet. Maybe I schould start to try it....
Hope to hear more from you trimming progress.

Best regards Roman
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TimWescott
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« Reply #59 on: May 25, 2011, 11:06:37 AM »

Roman:

This aircraft (and the prototype) doesn't really have a bubble canopy.  The canopy is all flat material wrapped around the canopy frame.  A vacuum formed canopy would make construction easier, but I'm not sure you could get really, really light that way.
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buildawyvern
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« Reply #60 on: May 25, 2011, 12:13:46 PM »

Hello Tim!

My Square is ready to test fly I'm just waiting for a calm day. Probably Sunday or Monday I'll get to test fly it.
I'll put some trim tissue after I test fly and take some finished photos.

Tom
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TimWescott
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« Reply #61 on: May 25, 2011, 01:52:19 PM »

I got impatient and covered mine with unmarked condenser paper, and now I'm regretting that decision.  I'm regretting it because if I'd been thinking ahead (well, if I'd not wanted to try two new things at once) I could have decorated the C-paper with Sharpie marker, then put it on.  Now there's wings and fuselages and stuff in the way of trying that.

Is there a really light way of trimming condenser paper with tissue?  Can I use really thin dope just over the trim, or something?
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buildawyvern
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« Reply #62 on: May 25, 2011, 02:21:26 PM »

Tim

The sharpie marker is a great way to color tissue. See my Peanut Andreason thread. Applying tissue over condenser paper should work but it wouldn't be as easy as the markers. Airbrushing would look great but I've never masked over condenser paper and that's a lot more work. My Squarecoupe is all while jap tissue at the moment but I'll probably just add a red fuselage stripe and some red to the rudders. I've been using spray Krylon on my models then I apply tissue markings with nitrate dope with no problems. Even computer printed numbers and logos work well applied with nitrate dope over Krylon. And Krylon under dope works well too so they're completely compatible. Krylon over the Sharpie colors work good too. There's no reason all this wouldn't work on condenser paper. I've been trying to keep my models simple because it's more fun, lighter, easy to repair and just easier!

I'll give you a first flight report after this weekend.

Tom 
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TimWescott
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« Reply #63 on: May 25, 2011, 02:29:07 PM »

Tom:

Post pictures!  Even if it's a ghost model!
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buildawyvern
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« Reply #64 on: May 25, 2011, 04:02:16 PM »

OK. Here it is Tim! The prop is made from a cottage cheese container that worked on another model. A grey plastic prop made it very nose heavy but I'll see what works. I have another balsa prop that might work too. Still needs windows and markings but it's ready to fly!

Tom
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TimWescott
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« Reply #65 on: May 25, 2011, 04:13:26 PM »

It looks good!
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« Reply #66 on: May 26, 2011, 06:39:46 AM »

Re. Dope over Condenser paper.  I've read that nasties happen with the combination (extreme shrinkage) even with non-shrinking dope.  I'm NOT sure whether it's true, but a 3mm tear that I repaired to a section of the stuff with GLATTFIX (Graupner) created a mess.
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« Reply #67 on: May 26, 2011, 07:15:04 AM »

Re. Dope over Condenser paper.  I've read that nasties happen with the combination (extreme shrinkage) even with non-shrinking dope.

This matches what I've read (though I've only very limited experience with using condenser paper, the couple things I have covered with it were very light and fragile structures).  The general rule is that condenser paper should never be shrunk (either before or after covering) or doped, and that for the very light structures usually covered with condenser paper, one should in fact crumple and then flatten the paper before covering (to provide some built-in slack) and cover in a "dry box" -- a box heated with a (soon to be extinct) incandescent bulb -- to ensure the paper is as dry as it will ever be when stuck to the structure.

If you want/need to dope, use Esaki -- it's only about 15% heavier than condenser (that is, if your condenser covering was going to weigh 600 mg, the same in Esaki will be around 700 mg exclusive of dope), and has a controllable, predictable shrink, allowing it to be preshrunk on a frame and then doped after application.
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« Reply #68 on: May 27, 2011, 10:50:39 AM »

OK. Here it is Tim! The prop is made from a cottage cheese container that worked on another model. A grey plastic prop made it very nose heavy but I'll see what works. I have another balsa prop that might work too. Still needs windows and markings but it's ready to fly!

Tom

Appears to be a Clem prop, one of which I used on my Baxter XE-5. I like it but without a rubber stripper I am unsure how to match the rubber to the prop.

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buildawyvern
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« Reply #69 on: May 27, 2011, 02:28:33 PM »

This prop was used on another Bostonian with two strands of 1/8" with good results. That's where I'll start.

I've used Krylon over condenser paper with good results but I sprayed very light coats but that covering might be best with no clear coat at all.

Tom
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TimWescott
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« Reply #70 on: May 27, 2011, 10:52:16 PM »

I used a similar prop on mine (only cut from a styrofoam coffee cup), and it seemed to fly well on 3/32" rubber.  I made mine with adjustable pitch; I hope that I'll be able to get in the ballpark with the rubber, then fine tune with pitch adjustments.
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TimWescott
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« Reply #71 on: May 30, 2011, 08:10:06 PM »

Got the bows and canopy on.  I've misplaced my cotton-picking camera, so I can't take a picture of it, or of the cowl panel where I've already punched through the condenser paper (oops).  You'll just have to trust me that it looks nice.
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TimWescott
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« Reply #72 on: June 02, 2011, 09:27:28 PM »

I found my camera.  After asking a couple of club members if I'd left it at the outdoor field or the indoor field, it turned up in a pile of stuff on my desk that I was just sure didn't have a camera in it.

Here's a picture of the airplane, complete but without trim.

Now if I can figure out how to repair the condenser paper that I've already ripped (!) and how to draw on that with a sharpie without mangling the structure or making crooked lines, I'm all set.
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buildawyvern
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« Reply #73 on: June 17, 2011, 10:12:21 PM »

Hello!

I finally had a good chance to fly my Squarecoupe last weekend in the Tustin blimp hanger. With a drag flap under the port wing the model is stable and turns to the left under power. In the glide it had a tendency to dive into the right so I added a left rudder tab to the inside (port) rudder. It still turns to the right but it at least it doesn't dive in. I may try rudder extensions (not enough rudder area) next time or a bigger rudder tab. Most of the time drag flaps make the model turn the same in the power and glide AND they keep the wing up that has the drag flap. I also have a standard 6" grey plastic prop and 2 strands of 1/8" which seem to give the best results so far.

All suggestions are welcome!

Tom
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« Reply #74 on: June 17, 2011, 10:41:58 PM »

Here's a shot of buildawyvern's SquareCoupe. It flies!
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