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Author Topic: Show us your P-30's  (Read 61674 times)
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Sunbeamtiger
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« Reply #575 on: March 14, 2012, 07:20:07 PM »


RE: loose nose plug on the Pirate.
Larry B told me the cure was a dab of J B Weld on the inside of the hook to beef it up a little.
Then grind to proifile with your Dremel.
It'll make the hook fit a little tighter and is much stronger
I did it on mine and no more problems.

Cheers!

Pete,
Now that you mention that, I recall Larry telling me the same thing. Of course silly me didn't do that. What I did try, which I forgot I did, was to lengthen the slot in the nose button so it would have to travel a bit more to fall out. Don't know if it worked or not since I have put that many flights up since then.

Mike
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Mike Richardson
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« Reply #576 on: March 14, 2012, 07:53:09 PM »

With a flat center panel, I'm considering putting the peg rail within the fuze and only adding a very low profile set of rails above if not just biting the bullet and flattening the top and using the top of the wing to continue the curve visually.

One question, do you think that 1/8"x1/16" diagonals could be used to reduce weight and make fitting the ends a bit easier?

_SHig
I don't know if it would be lighter, my building experience is too limited to say. FWIW, I will say that fitting the 3/32" sq. diagonals wasn't bothersome for me. I am going to have to reposition the rear motor mount. It's too far from the nose for a motor made of 3/16" rubber. Only after a couple of stretch windings was it long enough to let the freewheel work reliably. It may be OK with a 1/8" motor. I don't have much 1/8", so I'm loathe to waste it on a trial motor.
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kittyfritters
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« Reply #577 on: April 05, 2012, 05:01:53 PM »

This is my new P-30 design, working name "Unintended".  It started out as an all balsa, Jedelsky wing, indoor, towline glider.  (See post in Indoor Glider section.)  When someone suggested that I, "Put a motor on it!", my first thought was to simply put a nose bearing and a prop hook on the boom and make a sort of oversized ROG stick. 

Then I remembered that I had broken the wing on my Vector.  I took the motor tube off of the Vector and glued it onto the boom of the glider.  I glided nicely, but the powered flight was somewhat less than stable.  Remembering that the glider's fuselage boom was a tad shorter than a P-30's fuselage I grafted another ten inches into the boom.  Now, it flies rather nicely, at least in the low power tests I have been performing.  I won't be able to take it somewhere that has the room to max it until tomorrow morning.

It will need a bit of ballast to get to rules weight since it currently weighs 34 grams with the motor.  (The glider, in it's final incarnation, weighed 14 grams.)  When I have verified all the proportions I will build another one, built for the job, with a build post, and compete with it.  If it does well I'll do formal plans.
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applehoney
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« Reply #578 on: April 05, 2012, 06:17:44 PM »

Interesting!
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Bargle
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« Reply #579 on: April 05, 2012, 08:27:04 PM »

Agreed. Looking forward to a build thread.
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kittyfritters
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« Reply #580 on: April 06, 2012, 02:29:37 PM »

I had hoped to give my "Unintended" a real test this morning in the dead air when the on shore breezes give way to the off shore winds.  I left for the field just as the on shore wind was dying, but in the ten minute drive to the "Grassy Knoll" the dead air lasted about a minute.  When I arrived the off shore winds had gotten up to 15 miles per hour with gusts to 30.  I didn't even try to take it out of the car.  This weekend is socially crammed and the weather report for next week looks bleak, so it looks like I won't get to give it a real test until the following weekend.  I'll keep you posted.

Howard
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goodeye
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« Reply #581 on: April 06, 2012, 08:45:19 PM »

I'm finally ready to install the button timer and rig the pop up wing and tail on my Boomer. The instructions just say to 'install the timer' so my question is "how"? What type of glue are you using to attach plastic to balsa?
Thanks,
Greg
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goodeye
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« Reply #582 on: April 09, 2012, 02:56:30 PM »

Almost done with my Boomer. Just have to install the prop. I decided to incorporate the pop-up wing and tail. As pictured it weighs 37 grams (without prop) so it might be just a tad heavy. This is my first P-30 and I'm happy with it. The fuselage covering are individual color bands that are butted up to each other so in theory the weight should be the same as if it was all one piece of tissue. I tried to give it the 'coral snake' look (red on yellow kill a fellow). The pylon and last red band on the fuselage tail is floral paint. These photos were all taken with the D/T armed and 'hot'. Had to keep resetting the timer before it let go...

Mark
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dohrmc
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« Reply #583 on: April 09, 2012, 03:12:29 PM »

Wow, nice job, it is a handsome plane.  I bet it flies like a bird. 
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #584 on: April 09, 2012, 06:49:44 PM »

Mark,
GREAT looking ship!
Dave Andreski
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Alvaro Sala
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« Reply #585 on: April 09, 2012, 07:56:16 PM »

I made a video of Rafael Valderramos P30 in flight (The Urubu shown in reply # 513).
He used a short fuse due to the small field, so the flight was little more than one minute, but we can see how high the DT worked. It could easily fly for two minutes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0ejJYMa5m4
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Bargle
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« Reply #586 on: April 09, 2012, 08:05:32 PM »

Mark, you should be happy with it. You did a fine job. The snake color scheme came out very nice.  Smiley
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dohrmc
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« Reply #587 on: April 09, 2012, 08:49:10 PM »

Put some eyes on that thing!  It will look great, and it will terrify the other P 30s.
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goodeye
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« Reply #588 on: April 09, 2012, 10:16:29 PM »

Which prop should I use... Czech or Peck? I also have a Gizmo Geezer but I have decided not to use it on this model. The nose block is already finished for a non Gizmo prop. So the question is just which one... Czech or Peck?

Thanks,
Mark
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dohrmc
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« Reply #589 on: April 09, 2012, 10:41:20 PM »

One of my club flying buddies, David Mills, has competed in p30 at the Nats for a long time. He has come in at every place from 2nd to 6th, and is a very, very good P30 flier.  He uses the Peck prop. He has been a little unlucky not to win, but it's really hard to win P30 at the Nats.
You will find people willing to argue about it, but I would be interested in seeing what the top fliers are using.  Except for David, I have no idea how it breaks out.  I know David's planes climb extremely well.
I like the Gizmo unit, but then, I am a p30 hack.
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Rewinged
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« Reply #590 on: April 09, 2012, 11:14:38 PM »

Beautiful airplane.  I, too, really like the color scheme.

I, too, am a P-30 hack.  I think the choice of prop is really airframe and motor-dependent, since the prop efficiency is going to be related to pitch, prop speed, and airplane speed over the powered part of the flight envelope.  I have my theories, but I'm too new and haven't tested them, except putting my choice of configuration on my Titan.

--Bill
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kittyfritters
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« Reply #591 on: April 10, 2012, 02:08:27 PM »

There was some dead air, this morning, so I decided to take the "Unintended" to the Grassy Knoll.  As soon as I started the car a slight breeze came up.  I figured that it would be howling by the time I got to the Basin so I decided to go to the soccer fields a few blocks from my house.  The area is three regulation soccer fields, side by side, with a spectator area and a small parking lot, bounded by two major streets, the 170 freeway, and a line of trees.  Obviously, I would have to keep the power down.   Anything over a minute even in dead air, and I would loose the model.

I used a single loop of 3/16", F.A.I., tan, sport rubber weighing 4 grams.  The model was ballasted to 40 grams without the rubber using modeling clay.  On 1000 turns I was getting flights from 35 seconds to a minute. A minute flight carried it all the way to the trees with the slight breeze blowing.  Just when I was thinking that the configuration was validated it just quit flying.  I couldn't get over 20 seconds for the next two flights.   A closer examination showed that the nose plug had de-laminated just behind the thrust button.  A drop of C/A fixed it and the next flight was almost off the field on 1200 turns.

Although I have not tested this cobbled together version on 10 grams of rubber (I'll have to wait until the two storms coming in this week pass.) I think the configuration is validated, and it's time to draw up formal plans (The original plans for the glider are a dimensioned sketch on a yellow pad.) and start a build thread for it.  Of course there is always the possibility that one built straight will not fly as well as the cobbled together version, but my karma has been a bit better than that lately.
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hoogie007
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« Reply #592 on: April 10, 2012, 02:16:57 PM »

G-your Boomer looks fabulous as we have discussed off line.  I didn't realize you were sharing here or I would have answered your timer installation question.  On the Badge or Button you simply thread into the plywood adapter plates provided in the kit using the screws that come with the timer.  On the Ikarra version I have attached these with cellulose cement or even better-silicone adhesive.  The silicone is good for any of these if you want to skip the micro screw installation-just apply a thin film and place in position, allow to cure.  I've never had one of the Ikarra timers break off under use as a bonded in place installation.

A note on the Ikarra-the spring provided in the kit provides a bit too much pull for that particular one.  I've never managed to get one to go past two minutes, and most of the time it's about 1:30 or so.  Good for small fields or short D/T sessions, but pretty frustrating if you plan to fly contests.  The rubber stock include in that timer kit seems to work best but it has the shortcoming of eventually rotting or changing with use so you will be faced with maintenance problems there.  If you can find a very light tension spring to replace the kit one you may have better luck.  The kit spring is great with the other two timers noted.

Good luck on the test flights!

Clint
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goodeye
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« Reply #593 on: April 10, 2012, 03:05:08 PM »

I figured out how to mount the timer by looking at the drawing (that's a novel thought). I made a 1/32 ply mount plate for the timer, glued it to the pylon with Ambroid and then used 2 very tiny screws to mount the timer to the ply. I used the kit spring and yes, it was very tedious to get a 2 minute trip. I'm in the 2:15 range right now. I had to keep adjusting the string at the bung in VERY minute amounts to get it right. Almost imperceivable movements of the thread through the bung plug. I don't want to touch it anymore!

Mark
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OZPAF
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« Reply #594 on: April 11, 2012, 01:53:38 AM »

Alvaro - great flight by Rafael's Urubu. Good thing it went past the soccer players though. I like the nice right/right pattern and good transition. what rubber is Rafael using and how many turns did you have on for that flight?
Re the Boomer - it should definitely have eyes. Grin
The Unintended looks interesting for a Jedelsky wing P30.
John
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FLYACE1946
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« Reply #595 on: April 18, 2012, 08:05:21 PM »

Which prop for P-30 ?

Czeck 1st choice over PP unles the GGeezer has repitched the blades to match
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lincoln
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« Reply #596 on: April 29, 2012, 12:18:45 AM »

Let's hope no one like my mother is around when you're flying it. She would have killed it instantly before noticing it wasn't a snake!
snip
I tried to give it the 'coral snake' look (red on yellow kill a fellow).
snip

Mark
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goodeye
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« Reply #597 on: May 16, 2012, 12:17:23 PM »

I'm finally getting ready to travel to Muncie (for a autogyro fly-in) and I'm building motors and such for my Boomer. I found a 'deck mop' at Wal-Mart for $1.32 which has a thin wall (.010) steel tube handle not quite 7/8" in diameter. I cut a section off and made a blast tube. It slides right into the Boomer with about 1/32" clearance all around.

Ok, I have a dumb question so try not to make fun of me.... How the heck do you install the rubber motor into a closed end tube?
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Tmat
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« Reply #598 on: May 16, 2012, 12:27:59 PM »

No such thing as dumb questions!
You make a "stuffing stick". A piece of wood or tube or what have you that holds the motor in a stretched state so that you can load it into the motor tube with the blast tube in place.
Or, you can make a piece of wire that fits onto the front hook, that you can drop down the aluminum tube and pull the motor through with. To do that would require a rear tube that fits over the rear peg that the motor could be attached to first.  I've seen people make up multiple blast tubes pre-loaded with rubber motors that can be inserted into the motor tube at a moments notice.
Lot's of ways to skin the cat! Wink

Oh, and I think you need to slot the rear hole of your blast tube so that you can pull it out after winding. You don't want to have to remove the rear peg with a fully wound motor do you! Shocked

Tony
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craig h
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« Reply #599 on: May 16, 2012, 08:26:18 PM »

 I hope this works...here is a blow tube that was on the orgnial plan of the Champion P-30..note the notches for the motor pin..which allows the tube to be slightly twisted to be removed.
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