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Author Topic: Show us your P-30's  (Read 65926 times)
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Oldtime Flyer
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« Reply #900 on: December 04, 2016, 01:31:39 AM »

I built the short kit. I didn't know how to add weight and balance at cg.  Adding weight to the fuse under and the wing makes sense thanks for the help. I had planned on flying it underweight. 

Add weight to the nose first with the 10 gram motor installed. It will take at least some of the 10 grams you're under weight to balance at the C/G. (As noted on the plans) Then add the remaining left over under the wing at the C/G.
Thank you for building the"Majestyk."

Otf'er.......

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FLYACE1946
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« Reply #901 on: December 06, 2016, 06:42:33 PM »

After final assembly is accomplished and the model still comes out too lite then I suggest you add rubber bands to get the weight total you need. I had to do that on a Majestyk several years ago. It still flew OOS.
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Oldtime Flyer
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« Reply #902 on: December 08, 2016, 12:39:30 AM »

After final assembly is accomplished and the model still comes out too lite then I suggest you add rubber bands to get the weight total you need. I had to do that on a Majestyk several years ago. It still flew OOS.

After you have the model balanced at the correct C/G which is more important than any other issue.

Otf'er......
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Bargle
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« Reply #903 on: April 22, 2018, 09:45:42 AM »

Here we go. Banana Fritter #3. Weight without rubber is 46 grams, my heaviest BF so far. Still expect it will fly well enough for my small field.
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dohrmc
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« Reply #904 on: August 30, 2018, 03:10:26 PM »

Lost my modified Pirate at the last contest. She sleeps with the fishes in the Chattahoochee now. So I got out my old Square Eagle Kit and built it. Always wanted to build it, and so I did.
Test flew it yesterday at the sod farm, and it flew right off the board, no clay needed. It’s a little under 44 grams, which is not bad for a stock kit, and a Gizmo Geezer on the pointy end.
6 strands of 1/8” will be its steady diet.
A big rain shower forced me to cut short my trim session, but I’ll finish it next week, and should have a fine P30 to fill out the next contest roster.

I’ve never seen a Square Eagle that did not fly well.
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dohrmc
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« Reply #905 on: August 30, 2018, 03:23:16 PM »

While I’m posting pictures, I found this photo of my Tail Firster. A good flying plane! 
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Scottl0413
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« Reply #906 on: September 01, 2018, 07:57:58 PM »

Dorhm, looks great!! There just something about those old models that just fly right off of the Bd. I.e. Super 30 and Majestics!

Scott
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dohrmc
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« Reply #907 on: September 01, 2018, 10:00:36 PM »

Thanks!
I have a Really nice Majestic I finished also. Initial tests are great. Need to get a picture posted. 40.2 grams, so I imagine it will be the 3/32” one.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #908 on: September 02, 2018, 01:59:21 AM »

Nice models DO. 44 gms sounds pretty good to me for your Square Eagle. how well di the Tail Firster fly?

John
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dohrmc
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« Reply #909 on: September 02, 2018, 06:46:30 PM »

The Tail Firster flies very well under power and glides well. It has done quite a few maxes, but I wasn’t very focused on learning how to fly it well.
I am going to fly a lot more in P30, so I intend to get more squared away. Maybe I can get it going better.
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danberry
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« Reply #910 on: September 02, 2018, 07:31:19 PM »

They fly just fine.
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duration
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« Reply #911 on: September 03, 2018, 06:48:17 AM »

The canard layout might have an advantage in rubber-powered events such as P-30 that do not allow folding props. A freewheeling prop at the rear would seem to have less drag than one in front, since the rear-mounted prop would be working in the "dirty" air behind the wing. A horizontally-stopped aft prop might be even better. (The rules only bans folding or feathered props.)

A conventional layout with the stab mounted on two booms and a pusher prop just behind the wing would work, but only if a short motor and gears were used to get the CG in the right spot.

Louis
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Lee from Chitown
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« Reply #912 on: December 30, 2019, 12:17:23 PM »

Burner DT Timer
Bernard at Hummingbird Model Supply has a limited run of burner DTs and RDTs available as of 12/30/19.
Nice to see they are available again.
See his site hummingbirdmodelsupply.com.
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lincoln
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« Reply #913 on: December 31, 2019, 10:56:11 AM »

The canard layout might have an advantage in rubber-powered events such as P-30 that do not allow folding props. A freewheeling prop at the rear would seem to have less drag than one in front, since the rear-mounted prop would be working in the "dirty" air behind the wing. A horizontally-stopped aft prop might be even better. (The rules only bans folding or feathered props.)

A conventional layout with the stab mounted on two booms and a pusher prop just behind the wing would work, but only if a short motor and gears were used to get the CG in the right spot.

Louis

I wonder if the decreased drag of a pusher hiding behind a wing would be more important, or the decreased efficiency of having it behind the wing? Maybe if you could get the model to fly prop forward on the way up and prop in the back in the glide? I know that sounds ridiculous, but maybe there's a way to do it.
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applehoney
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« Reply #914 on: December 31, 2019, 03:47:10 PM »

Years ago I became  involved with an extended run of P30 flyoff flights against a Tailfirster, matching maximums until I finally found a tad more lift than the other flyer did.   Gave me great respect for that design.
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or_sh
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« Reply #915 on: February 11, 2020, 09:09:02 AM »

Hello guys,
Finely i finish my project of building my P-30 models.
I didn't fly them yet because the weather, so i can't tell you how the fly.
There is 3 models.
first model it call "pirate" (i think so) is Andrey Bordouv kit with my changes , i take from the kit only the wing and stab
second model is from Tony Mathews plan , i take from there the wing and the profile all the rest is my plan.
Third model to be honest i don't sure what profile i use there , it was the first model that i build , like you can see it's little bit different, i use there 4 panel wings like coupe or F1B models.

First model without beacon wight 43 grams   
Second model without beacon wight 41 grams
Third model without beacon wight 45

On the two first models the "pylon" not glue so i can change the C.G , now i start with 60% C.G .
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or_sh
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« Reply #916 on: February 11, 2020, 09:11:57 AM »

More photos.
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PeeTee
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« Reply #917 on: February 11, 2020, 09:42:24 AM »

Very nice, I hope they fly as well as they look!
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or_sh
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« Reply #918 on: February 11, 2020, 09:56:27 AM »

Very nice, I hope they fly as well as they look!

Thank you, i hope also , i will post here how the fly.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #919 on: February 11, 2020, 06:47:47 PM »

Beautiful models. I'm sure they will do well.

John
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Mike Thomas
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« Reply #920 on: February 12, 2020, 02:18:57 AM »

Yes, very impressive models. Did you make your own motor tubes? And what is the motor configuration - strands, length?
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Pat D
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« Reply #921 on: February 14, 2020, 09:26:46 AM »

great to see such nice P30's being built !

Great work

Pat

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or_sh
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« Reply #922 on: February 16, 2020, 10:30:55 AM »

Yes, very impressive models. Did you make your own motor tubes? And what is the motor configuration - strands, length?

Yes i did it buy myself , i also make the same tubes for F1G coupe models just shorter.
I make it on rod .
this 500 mm length , i don't remember what is the diameter in the front , i just know that i fit it to Stepan F1G front end , and the rear side of the fuselage is 16 mm
I put inside one more layer of fiberglass only for the hole for the rear peg.

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Tapio Linkosalo
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« Reply #923 on: July 13, 2020, 02:10:30 PM »

Some pictures of my "new" P-30 model.

Actually the design is really old, the first version of this model flew in 1986. Showing some success, a friend who had a small model airplane cottage company asked to make a kit of the model, and produced a number of kits (a few hundred I suppose). I also made a couple of upgrade versions of the model, with carbon tubes for wing spars. The friend has closed his company, so I thought maybe it would be time to re-draw the model for balsa-only wing construction, and laser-cut as far as possible. So the wing and tail have no carbon, but all components are laser cut (from 1,5 and 3,0mm sheet). The only cutting of the wood needed is to round the leading edges, and optionally wedge the trailing edges.

I also considered making the model with balsa tube for fuselage, but opted to go with a kevlar motor tube. Balsa tube could be also used. I have used a number of 3D printed parts for the model, including prop bearing and attachments for the adjusting screws for rudder and elevator.

For a couple of decades I have flown my P-30 models with VIT and rather forward CoG. Here, inspired by the spiral trim for E-36 models, I decided to try fixed control surfaces. So back goes the CoG, and turn will be by tail tilt. Remains to be seen if it works out. Waiting for calm conditions for trimming...

The model uses a digital timer with a servo for actuator. Airframe weight is 46 grams, so to meet the Finnish rules with 50 gram arframe weight I need some ballast (in addition to a tracker). I think I could have squeezed the model to 40 grams, by replacing the digital timer with a button timer (minus 4 grams), replacing the kevlar tube with a carbon one (minus one gram), and maybe lighter covering (the current is Oracover Air Indoor).
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randoloid
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« Reply #924 on: July 13, 2020, 10:30:11 PM »

Very cool model.  Thanks for sharing.  I like the adjustment screw on the rudder.  I use one on my stab and usually slice a section of my rudder to crack it slightly and then hit it with a little CA.  Not sure I'd ever need any additional adjustment to the rudder but your photos give me food for thought.
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