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Author Topic: Show us your P-30's  (Read 61693 times)
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Bargle
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« Reply #550 on: February 25, 2012, 09:22:38 PM »

Thanks, dohrmc. Will do.
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Victor
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« Reply #551 on: February 25, 2012, 09:33:59 PM »

That looks real nice, Bargle.... what kind of motor do you plan on using with it?
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dohrmc
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« Reply #552 on: February 25, 2012, 09:44:35 PM »

Oh, and by the way, that covering job is very nice.  It looks very smooth.
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Bargle
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« Reply #553 on: February 26, 2012, 09:50:58 AM »

That looks real nice, Bargle.... what kind of motor do you plan on using with it?
It'll be 10 grams of 3/16. I've got a fair amount of that. I made up a motor before I settled on the rear peg position. I set the peg mount where there's an inch or so of slack with an unwound motor. I don't remember how many loops that ended up being.

Oh, and by the way, that covering job is very nice.  It looks very smooth.

The wrinkles just didn't show up in the pictures. Trust me, they're there.  Grin
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goodeye
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« Reply #554 on: March 02, 2012, 07:41:36 PM »

Just about ready to cover my Boomer. This weighs 27 grams as shown in the photo. Not sure if that is good or bad at this stage since this is my first P30 model. Seems a little heavy though with only 13 grams left to make the 40 gram limit ready to fly minus rubber... Built it stock using Ambroid glue. Don't know how I could build it any lighter. Not complaining though, I'm happy with it!

Greg
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dohrmc
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« Reply #555 on: March 02, 2012, 09:17:28 PM »

I bet you have to add ballast. Nice job!
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dohrmc
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« Reply #556 on: March 02, 2012, 09:19:18 PM »

Forgot to ask, looks like aBoomer?  Never seen one, but that's my guess.
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goodeye
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« Reply #557 on: March 02, 2012, 10:35:50 PM »

Yep, Boomer..
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dohrmc
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« Reply #558 on: March 03, 2012, 10:32:15 AM »

I see you don't have a prop on it.  If you don't use a Gizmo Geezer unit on it, by all means get some Gizmo thrust buttons. You'll never put shims on a plane again. I am not an expert, but no shims is much better than any of the other choices. You don't need no steenkin' shims!  You'll have to bush a prop to use the .047 wire-or bush the thrust button, but still the best choice.
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BG
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« Reply #559 on: March 10, 2012, 04:22:35 PM »

Here is my new Pirate p30....41g with DT, still in the trimming phase.

B
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Wout Moerman
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« Reply #560 on: March 10, 2012, 04:48:27 PM »

Bernard
very nice looking P30! I love the colours and the weight is very good.

Wout
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Bargle
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« Reply #561 on: March 10, 2012, 07:35:43 PM »

Looks great, BG. Looking forward to flight pictures.
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Sunbeamtiger
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« Reply #562 on: March 11, 2012, 10:29:47 AM »

Bernard,
Nice looking Pirate, Great Job!
I have two of them and I can tell you one thing....You will love their performance and durability. The Pirate is great "windy weather" due to it's strength. The only problem you might run into will the nose button has a tendency to fall out. That has happened several times on both my birds over the years. I know of several people who have had the same problem. I haven't really solved the issue or really given it much thought since it doesn't happen that often but one day it will cause me to miss that max. Sad I suppose I will solve the problem then. Grin

Thermals
Mike
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Mike Richardson
Dave Andreski
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« Reply #563 on: March 11, 2012, 12:46:02 PM »

Here is my new Pirate p30....41g with DT, still in the trimming phase.

B
GOOD looking ship BG!
Dave Andreski
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BG
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« Reply #564 on: March 11, 2012, 01:54:25 PM »

THanks Guys,
I still have to optimize her....hoping to use a PGI TOP trim to get max performance out of her with minimal gadgetry.
B
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Tmat
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« Reply #565 on: March 11, 2012, 05:26:46 PM »

The only problem you might run into will the nose button has a tendency to fall out.
Mike, I had that problem too and actually did miss a max!
So I was forced to solve the problem. See the slightly out of focus pic (sorry about that) to see what I did. I made a wire hook out of 0.020" wire and glued it to the top of the fuselage secured with a few wrappings of thread. A small rubber band goes down under the noseblock bearing support and back up to the hook. Simple and foolproof.

Tony
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PeeTee
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« Reply #566 on: March 11, 2012, 05:48:56 PM »

Quote
A small rubber band goes down under the noseblock

In England, it's known as a 'duffer's band', but that obviously doesn't apply to you Tony Roll Eyes

I too suffered the same problem, but changing to the Gizmo hub and prop makes it a thing of the past.

I'm about to build some new wings for my P30, as some years ago they spent a few weeks out in the rain, and subsequent damage means that they are now beyond redemption.

Bernard, that's a very nicely finished model, congratulations.

Peter
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Pete R
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« Reply #567 on: March 12, 2012, 02:58:30 AM »

RE: loose nose plug on the Pirate.
Larry B told me the cure was a dab of J B Weld on the inside of the hook to beef it up a little.
Then grind to proifile with your Dremel.
It'll make the hook fit a little tighter and is much stronger
I did it on mine and no more problems.

Cheers!
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Tapio Linkosalo
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« Reply #568 on: March 12, 2012, 03:26:22 AM »

I have used for ages a rather similar rubber band as Tony shows. Simply put one 16mm (2/3") rubber band around the motor tube. The tube has two hooks on opposite sides, and the front bearing another two at 90 degrees to the hooks in the tube. So after installing the front bearing, I pull the rubber to the hooks in the bearing, and the rubber band then makes a zig-zag between the hooks. Keeps the nose block firmly in place.

 
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SHigSpeed
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« Reply #569 on: March 14, 2012, 12:05:51 AM »

Just finished up this one today. The design is called the Banana Fritter. I don't know how I did it, but this one came out pretty light by my standards. Just a smidge over 41grams. I seem to have built something that will actually need a DT.   Huh   Retrofitting shouldn't be too hard, I just didn't think I'd really need it, given how heavy my stuff usually comes out.

Hey Bargle,

The Fritter usually has a thru-fuze wing.  I even see the vestigial structure where it should go.  Why did you chose to top mount it?

_SHig
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applehoney
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« Reply #570 on: March 14, 2012, 01:05:46 AM »

Well.. maybe because it made more sense.

Putting the wing through a fuselage slot will likely damage either or both in a heavy impact ....  it will likely fly better wth the wing atop ....  and there's no requirement for it to be built as per plan as in Oldtimer/vintage.   

Looks better to me than Twomey's design!
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SHigSpeed
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« Reply #571 on: March 14, 2012, 01:45:10 AM »

Well.. maybe because it made more sense.

Putting the wing through a fuselage slot will likely damage either or both in a heavy impact ....  it will likely fly better wth the wing atop ....  and there's no requirement for it to be built as per plan as in Oldtimer/vintage.   

Looks better to me than Twomey's design!

Makes sense to me!  Did you chose to modify after building out the fuse?  I guess you need to be sure to leave a nice flat "land" at the wing loc instead of the banana curve (or compensate with complex rails I guess...)

Definitely on my "to build" list, and I'll most likely do as you did!

_SHig
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Bargle
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« Reply #572 on: March 14, 2012, 06:42:39 AM »

It was a combination of factors including those mentioned by Applehoney. I'm not the lightest builder, so the ability to adjust the CG without adding weight was a strong influence and yes, I did decide on the change after I had the fuselage mostly built. I decided to leave the structure as is. However, the CG ended up at just about the stock wing location, so I got no real benefit in that respect.  Undecided
I did have to make some curved pieces to get the rails up enough to sit flat. I built up a couple of layers of square stock, then sanded them off flat before adding the rails. I was careful to make the area parallel to the original mounting section. I really like the graceful curve of the fuselage and wanted to retain it.
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SHigSpeed
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« Reply #573 on: March 14, 2012, 10:29:41 AM »

It was a combination of factors including those mentioned by Applehoney. I'm not the lightest builder, so the ability to adjust the CG without adding weight was a strong influence and yes, I did decide on the change after I had the fuselage mostly built. I decided to leave the structure as is. However, the CG ended up at just about the stock wing location, so I got no real benefit in that respect.  Undecided
I did have to make some curved pieces to get the rails up enough to sit flat. I built up a couple of layers of square stock, then sanded them off flat before adding the rails. I was careful to make the area parallel to the original mounting section. I really like the graceful curve of the fuselage and wanted to retain it.

With a flat center panel, I'm considering putting the peg rail within the fuze and only adding a very low profile set of rails above if not just biting the bullet and flattening the top and using the top of the wing to continue the curve visually.

One question, do you think that 1/8"x1/16" diagonals could be used to reduce weight and make fitting the ends a bit easier?

_SHig
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Sunbeamtiger
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« Reply #574 on: March 14, 2012, 07:13:12 PM »

The only problem you might run into will the nose button has a tendency to fall out.
[/quote]
Mike, I had that problem too and actually did miss a max!
So I was forced to solve the problem. See the slightly out of focus pic (sorry about that) to see what I did. I made a wire hook out of 0.020" wire and glued it to the top of the fuselage secured with a few wrappings of thread. A small rubber band goes down under the noseblock bearing support and back up to the hook. Simple and foolproof.

Tony

[/quote]

Tony,
Thanks for the fool proof idea. That's pretty much what I had in mind and something I should be doing before the flying season arrives. My brother Marty is framing one up now (a xmas present from a kind brother). He was impressed with it's performance during the past Nats, even though I didn't do well he could see advantage in the design. One thing he doesn't like and makes fun of me is that I load the motor from the rear. Might sound strange but it works for me.
Mike
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Mike Richardson
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