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Author Topic: Show us your P-30's  (Read 61479 times)
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PeeTee
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« Reply #600 on: May 17, 2012, 03:12:22 AM »

For what it's worth, I've always put the bayonet cut-out on the other side of the slot. Winding in the usual clockwise direction means that any rubber movement tends to keep the blast tube locked in position, rather than unlocking it.

Peter
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Broken Strands
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« Reply #601 on: May 17, 2012, 11:11:13 PM »

My initial thoughts as well Peter, then after I read the building manual for that design Mr. Schroedter explains that the locking slots are seemingly backwards to keep the blast tube solidly in place in the event of a blown motor.  A tight fit will keep it in place during winding when the rubbing forces of the motor are relatively small.  

Sounds good to me, I'll give it a try.  Bill  
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Broken Strands
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« Reply #602 on: May 17, 2012, 11:30:06 PM »

Me and my Campbell P-30 in one hand and my OFB's Pirate in the other.  This is Pahrump, Nevada;  about an hour and a half west of Las Vegas.  In fact, just behind those mountains on the horizon is Las Vegas.  Pahrump is kind of a retirement community and that's where my buddy lives.  We were fine-tuning our planes for the Las Vegas club contest this coming Saturday.  The dry-lake just east of Las Vegas, where the contest will be held, is even bigger! 

100 degrees in Vegas today!
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Broken Strands
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« Reply #603 on: May 17, 2012, 11:44:23 PM »

Nonsense in the desert.  Pay no attention to the annoying man with the Iphone slurring his words.  Doing my best to distract my buddy as he preps his fancy schmancy composite prebuilt Pirate P-30.  Notice how I succeed and he screws up his launch. Cheesy

Meanwhile my low-tech Campbell Soup puts in max after max...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pLaiemPxyM
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goodeye
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« Reply #604 on: May 21, 2012, 04:56:01 PM »

Just finished building a winding stooge. Has an adjustable foam cushion and hooks for hanging the winder and blast tube removal wire. 3/32" fiberglass CNC cut forks with the pin attached via a lanyard. The wood is poplar and the hardware is 95% stainless. Now for the 'stuff stick'...
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SHigSpeed
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« Reply #605 on: May 21, 2012, 05:44:39 PM »

Just finished building a winding stooge. Has an adjustable foam cushion and hooks for hanging the winder and blast tube removal wire. 3/32" fiberglass CNC cut forks with the pin attached via a lanyard. The wood is poplar and the hardware is 95% stainless. Now for the 'stuff stick'...

Pretty!

_SHig
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goodeye
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« Reply #606 on: May 21, 2012, 06:15:24 PM »

Made a 'stuff stick' by modifying a metal thimble and attaching it to a carbon fiber arrow shaft with epoxy glue and a sheet metal screw going through the thimble into the shaft.
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kittyfritters
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« Reply #607 on: May 22, 2012, 06:18:10 PM »

Just finished building a winding stooge. Has an adjustable foam cushion and hooks for hanging the winder and blast tube removal wire. 3/32" fiberglass CNC cut forks with the pin attached via a lanyard. The wood is poplar and the hardware is 95% stainless. Now for the 'stuff stick'...

I like the ideas of hanging hooks for the winders and the "Oh, Oh! wire".

Here's my version of a stuffing stick made from leftover Guillow's spars.  Works with drapery ring rear loops too.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o207/kittyfritters/000_0559.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o207/kittyfritters/000_0560.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o207/kittyfritters/Pusher_stick.jpg

Show us your P-30's
Show us your P-30's
Show us your P-30's
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Sandgroper
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« Reply #608 on: June 20, 2012, 06:40:25 PM »

I haven`t flown P30 for years but with entries dwindling I decided I had to do my bit to keep it alive,my first P30 was the ICER 2 which flew well and managed a second place in our state champs in 1996-gosh that long ago.
The twin fins were a little troublesome for my clumsy paws so it was given an underfin and flew just as well.After that the wings and tail sat in the rack until recently when I stripped the old PP tissue off and recovered it with some iron on mylar from Dr Diesel,the fuselage was damaged so I formed a new one based on the ICER 1 from 1/32 balsa soaked in water and wrapped around a broomstick.After drying the seam is superglued and covered with Sig Koverall applied with thinned dope,I pull a dope filled sponge through the tube a couple of times to seal the inside.I machined a alloy nose ring and epoxied it in,the timer is a Tomy mounted on a alloy faceplate with a on/off switch.
After endless problems with free wheel devices I found the rear drive unit in the freewheeler postings on this site and made one up and an alloy nose button.
All up weight is 70g-shock horror but the test flights on hand winds are very promising.

Phil
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Pit
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« Reply #609 on: August 09, 2012, 08:22:25 PM »

I finally bit the bullet and picked up an IKARA "Pee Wee" from Benjamin in Belgium.  The German distributor for IKARA no longer carries model airplanes, so I had been faced with ordering directly - then Benjamin decided to make room in his cupboard...

I didn't hesitate...

Not sure if it's the RTF or ARF, but it comes with everything one needs except rubber (not sure about that, tho).  It's apparently designed to the European 50 gram rule, but that won't bother me as I seriously doubt if I'll get to a contest in the States.  At least I can get my "feet wet" before building some of the other neat models.

Should have it by the beginning of next week and will post pics then.
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Alvaro Sala
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« Reply #610 on: August 09, 2012, 10:01:41 PM »

The "Cometa" was a 24" wing span kit from Casa Aerobrás. 1943 design and it was the first rubber powered airmodel I made good flights about 30 years ago.
Now I decided to enlarge the plan to 30" with some modifications.
I don't belive it will be a winner in a contest. I built just becouse I love the vintage look.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #611 on: August 12, 2012, 08:00:13 PM »

Thats a nice looking model Alvaro.Sandgroper is that washout in the right wing or just camera distortion?

John
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Pit
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« Reply #612 on: August 17, 2012, 09:12:40 AM »

My IKARA "Pee Wee" arrived yesterday Grin!  It's the ARF version - very well packed and totally complete Shocked!  I will probably cover the tail in mylar instead of the supplied Super Light ESAKI so I'll have to order some from Mike W.

There IS some construction that still has to be done, and the flying surfaces then have to be sanded (LE) and covered.  The tissue (orange on mine) does seem lighter by feel than the orange "ESAKI Light" that I had from Shorty's Basement.  Included is a completely assembled, adjustable front end, Ikara viscous timer and ALL the itty-bits needed to get the model IN the air (yes, there is a good hank of TAN SS with "O"-ring).

I would even now NOT hesitate to recommend this P-30 to anyone!  It appears similar to a BOOMER (and many other "tube fuz" P-30's), and the list price, considering what's in the box, is quite acceptable.  There is some distortion in the photos due to the angle and the macro focusing mode, but rest assured, the parts are straight!



Short edit to the above: You have to supply your own glue and dope Angry Wink.
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dosco
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« Reply #613 on: August 17, 2012, 11:18:43 AM »

Pit:
Very nice. Is the boom supposed to be glued to the tube, or is it removable for tranportation purposes? I'm curious.
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Pit
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« Reply #614 on: August 17, 2012, 11:33:26 AM »

I've only glanced at the instruction sheet, but the joiner is balsa so I'd bet it is glued permanently.  If I start atually reading the instructions, unroll the plan, that means I'm in trouble...  It IS trying to seduce me Lips sealed, whispering "Hey, I'm almost ready... further along than most of your `finish me finally´models...", "just a few parts to glue and a bit of sanding..."

I'm resisting...


resisting...



resis...
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« Reply #615 on: August 17, 2012, 01:05:19 PM »

The "Cometa" was a 24" wing span kit from Casa Aerobrás. 1943 design and it was the first rubber powered airmodel I made good flights about 30 years ago.
...I built just becouse I love the vintage look.

Alvaro,
I really like the lines of your P30 'COMETA'.  They are truly appealing and worthy of emulation.  I can also see your love for the design with the way you covered it.  Really colorful.  It sure looks like a winner to me.
Ding

P-30 is the right size for me.
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dosco
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« Reply #616 on: August 17, 2012, 05:06:19 PM »

I've only glanced at the instruction sheet, but the joiner is balsa so I'd bet it is glued permanently.  If I start atually reading the instructions, unroll the plan, that means I'm in trouble...  It IS trying to seduce me Lips sealed, whispering "Hey, I'm almost ready... further along than most of your `finish me finally´models...", "just a few parts to glue and a bit of sanding..."

I'm resisting...

resisting...

resis...

<borg> RESISTANCE IS FUTILE! </borg>
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Pit
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« Reply #617 on: August 17, 2012, 06:46:21 PM »

PFFFT!! Tongue Tongue     Wink
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Pete R
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« Reply #618 on: August 17, 2012, 07:30:45 PM »

PFFFT!
Does that mean youre thinkin' Jetex assited P-30?
cheers!
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« Reply #619 on: September 01, 2012, 01:58:56 PM »

The "Cometa" was a 24" wing span kit from Casa Aerobrás. 1943 design and it was the first rubber powered airmodel I made good flights about 30 years ago.
Now I decided to enlarge the plan to 30" with some modifications.
I don't belive it will be a winner in a contest. I built just becouse I love the vintage look.

Alvaro, 

I love the design, and your craftsmanship is excellent. Winning the contest is not the total objective of this hobby, at least for some like myself, but the joy of building and flying a beautiful model is a great measure of success.  I may have to use the design as an inspiration for future P-30s. Thanks for sharing.

Bruce
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Alvaro Sala
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« Reply #620 on: September 02, 2012, 09:27:31 PM »

Thanks John, Ding and Bruce.

Video of the flight with 600 turns. After this I made a flight with little less side thrust and 900 turns. Thanks to DT I still have the Cometa.
http://youtu.be/mYh33WvdVq8
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Alexandre Cruz
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« Reply #621 on: September 17, 2012, 09:51:18 PM »

P30 fleet ready for competition:

Saturno V5 (14mm, homebuilt fiberglass fuselage, GG unit, composite wing and HT)

Saturno V3.8 (14mm, homebuilt glass and carbon fuselage, GG unit, balsa V3 wing and tail, vertical made using carbon rods)

Saturno V3.5 no pylon (balsa fuselage, wing and tails)
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Alvaro Sala
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« Reply #622 on: September 17, 2012, 10:09:11 PM »

What Alexandre Cruz Didn't tell:
Next sunday, september 23th we'll make a contest - P-30.
My humble Cometa will face his fleet of Saturnos.
Wish me luck!
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Tapio Linkosalo
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« Reply #623 on: September 18, 2012, 03:47:02 AM »

Talking about P-30's, we flew out Finnish "championships" on Sunday, in really harsh conditions. 7m/s wind across the small (700m; 1/2 mile) field meant that we had to be close to a band of small trees, and the weather was really turbulent all over the field. F1H's, that launched to 60+ meters were in smoother air and some even cought some thermals, but most P-30's struggled in the ground turbulence and never really got altitude.

I have been working on VIT and torque meter lately, and had my models trimmed for strong, straight burst on 6 strand motors. In better conditions you can climb 30 meters, half the overall height, in less than 10 seconds with a fully-wound motor. On Sunday, this approach did not work, but the turbulence threw the model all over the place, resulting in bad climbs and even crashes during the initial flight. On the other hand, guys with slower climbs were not doing much better, with the turbulence shaking their models up and down. So the question really is, how should one trim a P-30 for such heavy turbulence? Or is it just a no-go, no feasible way to fly such small models in such heavy conditions?

 
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Alexandre Cruz
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« Reply #624 on: September 18, 2012, 12:20:56 PM »

 We had the same problem this year in Argentina, very strong wind, even too much for F1H to be properly towed.

 My best result was using an intermediate motor run (10 strands of 1/16") and waiting for a good spot to launch so the first seconds could take the model high enough to scape the turbulence.

 I cant tell if a shorter motor would be better as I also saw many crashes that day.
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